17 January 2012

Fun with Bitters


I was bestowed with a gift of bitters for the holidays from my sweetie (I asked for them, so it’s a good thing!) and have been having fun experimenting ever since. While bitter flavors are generally underrepresented in the west, they are an important part of the kitchen and nutrition arsenal none the less.

Bitters literally “wet” the appetite by stimulating the production of digestive enzymes from the mouth (saliva), stomach (acid), and liver (bile).  Many greens and other things you eat have bitter constituents, such as collards, endive, dandelion, mustards, and kale; even artichokes, Seville oranges, coffee and good dark chocolate are bitters.  If you’ve ever had a sazerac in New Orleans or a negroni before dinner, you have partaken in some lovely cocktails featuring bitters. 

Leonetto Cappiello Campari poster c.1921 art.com
To become bitters plants are either infused into alcohol (or sometimes glycerin) or their essences distilled into it, to impart their unique flavors and nourishing properties.  Concentrated amounts were and are still used medicinally, whereas the most common bitters on the market today are used more as digestifs and aperitifs.

The campari used in a negroni is a secret mixture of herbs, fruit and (traditionally) carmine dye to impart its deep red color.  Likewise, many other bar staples have a bitter quality imparted by one or more specific herb: Absinthe (wormwood), Tonic water (quinine), Angostura (gentian) … even our own Oregon Grape is a potent bitter that might make a lovely addition to a cocktail someday!

Where tonic & campari are used in relatively large volumes, Angostera bitters and other such brands (such as Fee Brothers & Scrappy’s) are used by the dash.  This is also the case with the bitters that I am now playing with. 

We are down to one bulb - so sorry about the lighting!
The two sample packages I received include: aromatic, lavender, celery, orange, chocolate, cardamom, and grapefruit bitters, while Scappy’s also makes root beer and lime bitters.  I have seen mint & peach also from Fee Brothers, and that is just the beginning.  Shops such as The Meadow on N Mississippi have so many flavors & varieties that it boggles the mind that there are so many small-batch crafters of bitters!

So far we have come up with the following little ditties, all of which would make wonderful virgin concoctions to keep with any new year’s resolutions to imbibe less, or if the new year has brought a new gift that requires a seat back “on the wagon” (congrats Nicky!).  Just omit the booze entirely, or substitute more flavored or plain soda to make up the difference in volume.  Or to get a gin-like flavor, try pouring in a little juniper dry soda.

New Years Even with tequila & chocolate bitters
A note on dry sodas: the “dry” here is similar to why you would call a certain wine dry – namely, it is substantially less sweet.  I like the Seattle-based Dry Soda Co.’s adventurous flavors, and less-is-more mandate.  Each variety has only four ingredients and weigh in at around 55 calories (40-70) and come in fun flavors like rhubarb, lavender, juniper, vanilla bean, lemongrass, wild lime, blood orange and cucumber. Visit the website for the flavor profiles that feature food pairing suggestions and cocktail recipes.  http://drysoda.com You can find these at many well-stocked grocery stores in the Pacific Northwest, including New Seasons & Freddy's.

Once you start with bitters, you’ll find yourself adding them to all sorts of drinks and even start sneaking it into salad dressings, marinades and whatnot for an extra little bite!  A votre santé!



Some Easy Combinations to Try...

Floral Gin like G’Vin Floraison or Bombay sapphire | lavender dry soda | lavender bitters

Crisp Gin like Aviation, New Amsterdam or Plymouth | rhubarb dry soda | celery bitters

Good Tequila like Avion Resposado or Corralejo Resposado | slightest lime squeeze | chocolate bitters (you could also try the grapefruit or lime bitters)

Celebrate citrus season with a Campari & OJ
Bourbon like Makers Mark | chai tea | orange bitters

Campari | juice of one valencia orange | orange bitters

(Cheap) Sparkling Wine | grapefruit fanta | grapefruit & cardamom bitters (this concoction of Tricia's shouldn't work but it does!)

(Not as cheap) Sparkling Wine | aromatic & lavender bitters

Water | fresh-squeezed lemon | aromatic bitters

Other ideas: Wake up a dirty martini or a bloody mary with a good shot of celery bitters, try spiking cold herb tea/infusions with a dash of bitters...fabulous!

Add aromatic bitters to herbal teas for a kick

Intrigued by Bitters?  Check out...

Scrappy’s Bitters http://scrappysbitters.com/ - Recipes are grouped by flavor





No comments:

Post a Comment