Popped Amaranth

¼ c yields ~¾ c popped

Amaranth is one of those recently “rediscovered” grains that you may have heard about but have no idea what to do with.  Just as quinoa was to the Incas, amaranth was a sacred food to the Aztecs and was domesticated over five thousand years ago.  Both are actually seeds, often called pseudograins, and are related to spinach. Amaranth is the smaller of the two and usually found as golden beige seeds, although varieties from almost black to pink exist too.  Amaranth seeds are “extraordinarily nutritious” - higher in protein and calcium than milk[1] and high in folate and iron.  The leaves can also be eaten, and are increasingly seen on local menus in late spring.  These plants are very easy to grow, have multiple uses, are especially beautiful and produce a lot of seeds – one plant can yield up to 50 thousand!  I highly recommend fitting some into your 2012 garden plan.

Alegria from www.tamaraduker.com

Amaranth can be cooked, but is quite gummy and usually used as a thickener.  I’ve been playing around with it to make a tart crust, and will report back once I get it to my liking.  In the mean time, I’m excited to experiment with popping this fantastic grain.  Popping the poppy-sized seeds is easy and yields mini popcorn-like white fluffy balls.  In Mexico, popped amaranth is bound with a sweetener to make alegria and sold by street vendors.  In looking for a picture to add I came across a whole post on a site hosted by a registered dietitian/nutritional therapist that is definitely worth a read and has a recipe for North-of-the-Border Alegria that looks really good! along with more amaranth info and tones of GF recipes.

While it’s a little harder to eat just loose, it is fabulous mixed with a little salt, pepper and hot sauce, and spooned into your palm.  I’m working on binding this into a savory version of alegria.  I’m sure that it would also make a nice crispy coating on baked tofu (or anything else!) and may even be a good substitute for breadcrumbs in many recipes – venture forth and let me know how it goes!

The procedure on how best to do this differs with each person’s account.  The afforested site recommends popping only a tablespoon at a time to ensure less unpopped seeds.  I’m not that patient and I’ve found that putting about a quarter cup in at a time yields lots of popped seed, and the unpopped ones are toasted such that they are not overly crunchy.  Play around with it to find out what methods works best for you and your end product – ergo, have extra on hand.

Directions

Get a heavy pan (such as cast iron) really hot – ready a tight-fitting lid if you wish. Add the amaranth such that it just fills the bottom of the pan – too thick a layer and it won’t pop evenly.  Shake back and forth occasionally to keep it from burning, with or without the lid depending on how much of a spilly-pants you are.  When the popping has slowed/stopped, promptly pour the amaranth out of the pan.  Pop more amaranth until you reach the desired quantity.  How easy was that!?

---

[1] Wood, Rebecca. 1999. The New Whole Foods Encyclopedia. Penguin: New York, NY. 426 pp.

Homemade Candied Lemon Peel

Makes about ¾ cup loosely packed peels | ~1.5 cups simple syrup

Candying lemon peel at home is easier than you think and the same process can be used for the whole citrus family – try it with tangerines, grapefruit, or limes too.  You can also jazz up the boiling water with spices, like cloves with orange peel, depending on what your whims and recipes.  Chop it up for adding to sweet treats, decorating mendiants, or just enjoy it by itself.

An added bonus is that the boiling liquid becomes a lovely, tangy simple syrup, which can be used to flavor soda water for a refreshing drink, sweeten whipped cream, or to kick up your next lemon drop martini!  Hey, you’ve got to use up those “naked” lemons somehow!

Thoroughly wash

• 3 large organic lemons - your want organic especially when eating peels

Then remove the peel from each with a vegetable peeler (easiest), sharp knife, or long spiral with the peeler/zester tool that bartenders use.

In a small pan bring to a boil

• 2 c water

Add the lemon peels and boil for 5 minutes or so until they are soft.  Remove the pan from the heat and allow to cool slightly.  Taste the liquid, if it is really bitter remove the peels, and start with 2 fresh cups of water – this all depends on the particular lemons/citrus you are using.  You can change the water a couple times if they are really bitter, but there should be a pleasant tang to it.  Too many changes and neither the peels nor the syrup will taste like anything.  I used the original boiling water.  When you are satisfied, stir in

• 2 c sugar

Return the pan to the heat and bring to a boil.  Then reduce the heat and simmer the peels until they are transparent, about 10 min.  Remove the peels with a slotted spoon or spatula, allowing them to drain off most of the syrup before transferring to a plate or cutting board.  Separate them so that they dry.  You can sprinkle them with more sugar if you like, which will also help them from sticking together.  Leave out for 1-2 days, shaking them now & then, until they are completely dry before storing. 

You can experiment with different flavored sugars, by adding freshly ground ginger, nutmeg, cinnamon, clove, etc. to the sugar, or alternatively dip one end of the zest in dark chocolate for a special treat.

Let the remaining liquid cool, then decant the simple syrup into a clean, sterilized glass jar (place a clean, dry jar in the oven or toaster oven for 15 min @ 200 degrees F.  Store in the refrigerator for up to a month – or add a tablespoon of vodka and it will last 3 months.  Discard if the syrup becomes cloudy.  

This makes a great gift – just be sure to label it accordingly.  

Mac 'n' Cheese

Serves 4-6 mains | 8 sides

One thing that you do really miss being gluten-free is pasta, all pasta really, but periodically the pang for a good ‘ol mac ‘n’ cheese is very strong – especially when gourmet versions are all the rage and on seemingly every menu in town.  While I don’t advocate making it a habit, it is nice to indulge in this gooey, cheesy, comfort food now and again, especially during the holidays.  Well, it’s a good excuse at least when the days are blah and a large amount of “healthy eating” has already been abandoned for eggnog, chocolate, cheese plates, and candy canes.  And when JJ suggests that we have one of his favorite meals AND he'll make it - I'm definitely in!  So tonight we are assuaging all of the long days we’ve had this week with a “healthy” dose of mac ‘n’ cheese. 

Making a GF version is easier than you might think by using the best GF-pasta that you can find and then replacing the traditional roux with a vegetable starch like potato or tapioca starch.  On the pasta front I would highly recommend sourcing some corn-quinoa variety, such as Ancient Harvest Quinoa Supergrain Pasta.  You can find it in a variety of shapes like elbows, shells, spirals and more, and I’ve even seen the elbows in the bulk bin at New Seasons.  Corn pastas in general behave so much better than the rice ones (which have an innate tendency towards becoming a glue ball), especially for baked dishes.  Still, you have to really watch it – I would suggest hyper-vigilance to the point of a have a dedicated pasta person to monitor it continuously while you are preparing other ingredients.  Keep touching and tasting because the difference between al dente and total explosion is mere minutes, due to the lack of that all-important stretchy gluten.  That said, it can still be a satisfying pasta experience.

The great thing is that you can make this dish as gourmet or as classic as you desire.  We added rosemary in the sauce and a gratin topping.  This is a dish that can be a great canvas for experimentation - I would suggest trying sage, thyme or rosemary for spices, adding different cheeses, or even (gasp) spiking it with some broccoli, kale or swiss chard.  Any way you do it, relish the few times a year that you do indulge and enjoy every fabulously creamy bite of it – you can have a salad tomorrow. 

For the pasta: Fill a medium pot two-thirds full with water, salt liberally, cover and place over high heat.  When it hits a rolling boil, drop the pasta (see below).

For the sauce: Place a heavy, short pot (such as a dutch oven) or large, deep frying pan over medium-high heat.  Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.  Then add:

• ~1/2 T extra virgin olive oil (or neutral vegetable oil)
• 1 med-lg boiler onion, finely diced
• 3 garlic cloves, minced

Saute together for a minute to release the aroma and then add

• 1 stick of butter (1/2 cup) – this is not a health elixir people (but then you wouldn't love it nearly as much!)
• 1 T died rosemary or other herbs (or 2 T fresh)

Saute further until the onions are beginning to become soft and translucent.  Meanwhile, drop the pasta in the pot of now boiling water.  Stir immediately, then stir occasionally (about every minute or so) until just undercooked.  It will keep cooking after you drain AND while in the oven, so keep this in mind when gauging doneness.

When the onions are soft, stir constantly and sprinkle in by the tablespoon:

• 2 -4 T potato starch (or other vegetable starch such as tapioca – I wouldn't use corn here) depending on how thick you like the sauce to be; more = thicker

Once incorporated let cook briefly then start stirring in

• 1 lb cheddar or other cheese, grated -> reserve about ½ cup for topping

Check the pasta constantly and when very al dente – edible but not quite done – drain and stir periodically to keep from sticking together while the sauce finishes.

When the cheese has melted somewhat, add

• 2-3 cups milk (or unsweetened, unflavored milk substitute of your choice) depending again on the desired consistency

Cook at a low simmer until all the cheese has melted and the sauce is creamy.  While you wait make some crunchy topping if you like.  Crush

• ~1 c VGF chips such as corn tortillas, falafel chips, or rice crackers

Toss with

• 1 t smoked paprika
• 1 t olive oil or melted butter

Then incorporate the reserved grated cheese.  When the sauce is ready, stir in the drained pasta noodles until everything is nice and coated, then cover with the gratin topping.  Bake for 30-40 min, or until the top is crunchy and golden brown.  

Remove from the oven, then leave it for 10 min before serving – set the timer and go have a sip of wine, check the email or play with the dog to save yourself from premature sampling and ensuing scalded mouths.  Or ask yourself "what would JJ do?" and chop up a quick picante relish to cut all the creamy goodness.  Dice any combination of pickled peppers/jalapeños, roasted red peppers, scallions, parsley and/or other vinegary or spicy condiments to suit your taste.  Then serve up and enjoy your well-deserved indulgence!

 

MJ Note: You could also portion this into individual dishes before baking, in which case the cooking time would be reduced, but you could also reduce 1) your desire to eat more than you should, and/or 2) cutlery jousting over the equitable division of portions amongst family members/friends/neighbors.

Leek, Chanterelle & Kale Tart with Press-In Herb Crust

Serves 6-8

I was inspired by a Leek & Chanterelle Tart recipe that I found online, but that used a traditional pie crust.  This gave me the opportunity to try out a GF one that I found in a new Almond Flour cookbook[1] that I picked up in Boise.  However, when I looked in the fridge I only had half of the pound of chanterelles that the recipe called for.  No worries – I beefed up the ones I had with some button mushrooms (but definitely use all chanterelles if you have them) and though that it could use a little extra green kick with some kale, which was conveniently growing outside. 

You could have fun with a whole myriad of substation possibilities – try portabellas for their meaty texture and robust flavor, or sub the kale for swiss chard, spinach, arugula or whatever greens you have on hand (or outside the back door).  For even less fuss, omit the crust all together and add an egg or two to bind it for a filling-rich pseudo frittata.

Serve this with a lightly dressed green salad for a light dinner or a fabulous weekend brunch.  It will keep nicely in the fridge for 2 days and is even good cold!

Press-In Herb Crust

Makes one 9” crust (increase amounts slightly for a 9.5” crust)

Ready a 9” shallow tart dish/pan.  Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

In a large bowl combine the following dry ingredients:

• 1.5 c almond flour
• 1 T fresh herbs, minced, such as rosemary, thyme or what will complement your flavors (I used thyme)
• ½ t cracked black pepper
• ½ t salt

In a medium bowl combine the following wet ingredients:

• ¼ c grapeseed oil (or other neutral vegetable oil)
• 1 T water

Whisk briefly and add to dry ingredients.  Using your hands mix the two until thoroughly combined.  Then press into the tart pan as evenly as possible, redistributing dough from thick to thin areas as necessary. 

Bake for 15-20 min until golden.  Let cool completely before filling.

MJ’s NOTE: This is the original recipe and it is vegan.  It worked fairly well but the crust fell apart a little if served before it was completely cool.  If the diet allows, I would suggest adding either an egg or half of the cheese from the recipe below along with the wet ingredients to help it bind further.  It was still tasty as is, albeit not as pretty as I had hoped.  Let me know what you think if you try either of these options – and I will report back with future attempts too!

Tart Filling

Prepare:

• 3 large leeks, white and light green parts only

Chop of the root ends and the very dark green outer leaves.  Cut in half the long way and run under water while gently fanning the layers to remove any grit.  Then slice each half across in thin (~1/4”) slices.  You should have about 3 cups.

Bring a large heavy-bottom pan up to medium-high heat, then add

• 3 T butter (or extra virgin olive oil or a combination)

Add the leeks and sauté until the leeks are soft, about 3-5 minutes.  Then add

• 1 c lacinato kale leaves, chopped and thick mid-rib removed (or substitute swiss chard, spinach or other hearty greens)

Stir to coat with oil/pan juices and then add

• A splash of veggie broth, white wine or water

And cover with a lid to steam and hasten cooking for a minute or two, once beginning to wilt and turn dark green, turn up the heat and add

• 1 lb chanterelle or other mushrooms, cut into ~1” pieces. 

Cook, stirring constantly until the mushrooms have released their juices and are beginning to brown, about 5 – 10 minutes.  Reduce heat to medium.

In a small bowl or measuring cup, combine:

• 3 T unsweetened, unflavored almond milk (or milk product/substitute of your choice)
• 1 t potato starch (or substitute tapioca or corn starch)

Wisk briefly with a fork to remove any lumps and distribute the starch relatively evenly.  Add this to the pans along with

• ½ T fresh herbs, such as thyme or rosemary (I used thyme)

Let it incorporate for a minute or two, then turn off the heat and let the ingredients cool slightly.  Meanwhile grate

• 8 oz of gruyere cheese (or other flavorful hard cheese), about 1 cup

Spread half of the cheese on the prepared tart crust (if not already incorporated into it – see note above).  Then spread the leek-mushroom-kale mixture on top and sprinkle with the remaining cheese.  Bake on the center rack until the cheese is melted and golden, about 25-30 min.  Remove and let cool for 10-15 minutes before cutting.  Serve warm or at room temperature (and even good cold out of the fridge!).

---

[1] Amsterdam, Elana. 2009. The Gluten-Free Almond Flour Cookbook. Celestial Arts: Berkley, CA. 136 pp.

Ginger Martini

One batch is 7 oz | Makes 3-4 cocktails

This martini has become a regular feature of our Thanksgiving table and holiday get togethers.  It has a wonderful ginger kick moderated by the sweetness of pineapple juice (of all things).  Ginger is full of antioxidants, high in potassium, and a fabulous warming, immune booster – so this is a health cocktail, really - and a perfect aperitif after you’ve fought the coughing and sneezing masses at the mall.

This recipe came about when Carol was listening to the NPR three years ago while they were having a ginger recipe contest.  I guess the host was a ginger fan, and had invited the listeners to submit all kinds of recipes featuring this pungent rhizome.  The NPR staff then made some of these recipes for said host to sample, and none of them hit the ginger mark for her like this martini, submitted by a bartender from Mizu in Chicago.

Carol promptly tracked down the recipe, but then came the brainstorming as to how one comes up with this quantity of fresh ginger juice – assuming that we wouldn’t be able to stop at just one.  If you have a juicer at home you could use that, or for a workout you can squeeze chopped ginger through a garlic press.  The other option is to track down a juicing establishment, such as Booster Juice, and get the fresh stuff from them.  Any extra can then be frozen in ice cube trays for the next time you need a ginger kick for marinades, sauces, or of course… martinis!

Fill a large martini shaker a third full with ice and shake to crush. 

Then add

• 3 oz vodka (a great place for local spirits!)
• 1 oz triple sec
• 1 oz fresh-squeezed ginger juice
• 1 oz pineapple juice
• 1 oz Rose’s lime juice

Shake again to combine.  Strain into glasses and sip away!

Cheers!

Decadent Scalloped Potatoes

Serves 8 - 10

When the days get shorter, the wind and rain pick up, and the trees are looking naked it’s time to treat yourself to some comfort food – and these saucy potatoes are just that.  Creamy, steamy, and luscious, these taters are equally good with homey classics like meatloaf, or can be deluxe alongside holiday dishes and more elaborate fare.  We recently served them alongside Chanterelles with “Chicken” and Onions for a sumptuous seasonal meal.  Make extra, because you definitely want to wake up on the weekend and make the bonus recipe of JJ’s Own Private Sunshine Over Idaho.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.  Grate (a great activity to sub out – let someone earn dinner!):

• 4.5 oz muenster, fontina, swiss or similar cheese (about the size of your palm before grating) or for dairy free whisk ~1/2 t nutritional yeast into a broth-milk mixture (see below).

Cut the following into slices:

• 2 large sweet onions (or 3 med-large boiler onions), trimmed, peeled & cut crosswise
• 10 small-medium Yukon gold or russet potatoes (or other with a relatively thin skin, ~2 lb), into halves and then ¼” slices

Finely dice

• 1 T fresh rosemary or thyme (or 2 t dried) - or try scallions or the herbs of your choice

Get ready

• 4 T potato starch (or tapioca, or corn)
• 4-5 c milk or your choice (unsweetened, unflavored if you go for almond or soymilk), or a combination of milk and veggie stock if you want to lighten it up, but no more than ½ stock.

Now that you’ve got all your “shtuff”, grease your chosen scalloped dish (if you anticipate overage, grease another smaller one too…mmm leftovers).  Our recommendation (though we don’t heed it) is for a lower & broader dish, but use what you’ve got. We use two pyrex casserole dishes, one roughly 6.5” x 8.5”, the other 7.5” x 9.5” – you know, those nesting ones.  Next time I’m going to try it in our large, 12” cast iron pan just to see. 

You are going for 3-4 layers that distribute the ingredients evenly – push down a little as you near the end if you are reaching critical mass.  Repeat in order the following until the ingredients are used up:

1. Thin layer of potatoes, slightly overlapping
2. Sprinkle of rosemary, salt and coarse black pepper
3. Layer of onions
4. ~1 T of potato starch
5. Thin layer of cheese, if using
6. Repeat until done...

Ready for the oven!
(We used butter this time but decided it didn't really need it)

Move the dish(es) to a baking sheet (to catch spills – these are almost guaranteed to overflow if you don’t) then fill the dish 1/3 to ½ the way up the side with your chosen milk, or milk-broth mix depending on the level of creaminess that you desire.

Cover with foil and bake for 60 – 90 minutes, or until the liquid has thickened and the potatoes are cooked through.  If you want a crispier crust, remove the foil and broil briefly until golden.  Let rest 5-10 minutes to cool from “surface of the sun” to something less likely to scald the roof of your mouth. Serve, luxuriate and enjoy!

Bonus Recipe: JJ’s Own Private Sunshine Over Idaho.

Warm leftover scalloped potatoes in a pan, with a little stock or milk if needed to keep them from sticking.  Alternatively, you can just pop the dish back in a 350^o oven for 20-30 min until warmed though.  Portion into shallow bowls and top with the runny egg of your choice, like fired, poached or basted.

** To baste an egg: place a pan over medium heat, when hot enough to sizzle a few drops of water, add just enough butter or olive oil to coat the bottom of the pan.  Crack in eggs, taking care not to break the yolk; sprinkle with salt & coarse black pepper.  Pour about a ¼ c worth of water around the edges of the egg white, quickly loosen the bottom of the egg from the pan with a thin spatula and cover with a fairly tight fitting lid or inverted plate.  Let steam until the “eye” is closed – the yolk glazed over and not raw looking – and is your desired doneness.  About 2 min for runny; wiggle the pan slightly to see how jiggly the yolk it, you want it to be set but still wobble.  Remove with a slotted spatula, holding the egg above the pan for a moment to let the excess water drain off, and serve.  If this looks crazy difficult, its really not.  Check out Jeffery Saad on YouTube, for how to fry or baste an egg – the guy drives me nuts, but he does a nice job of showing you how.

Crispy Shallots

3 large shallots yields about 1.5 cups

These little gems are fabulous on top of just about anything!  Use them to replace the crunch of croutons on salads, French’s Fried Onions on casseroles, onion rings on burgers or anywhere you want a savory snap to complement more supple textures. 

Yes these are fried in oil, but as there is no breading not much is absorbed.  I like to use grapeseed oil because it has a higher smoke point – the temperature at which you go from frying onions to opening doors and windows and flapping a tea towel at the smoke alarm – but you could use canola, peanut (watch for guest allergies), sesame or regular olive oil.  Each will subtly impart a different flavor, so choose accordingly.  You could also switch up the shallots with leeks or sweet onion to suit your dish and pantry. 

Whatever you choose there are three tips/tricks to doing this right:

 1) Slice them thinly and consistently.  For this a mandolin is the tool of choice to ensure uniformity – they don’t have to be expensive and you can use them to whip up all kinds of things, from salads to Quick Pickled Red Onions.  For the shallots I use about a 1/16” blade.  You could try these in a food processor, just be careful to place them in in such a way that the slices are across the shallot, and not all over the place because you want rings that are moderately even so they all get crispy at the same time.  This is also an opportunity to hone your knife skills – sharpen that knife before you start, or you’ll be swearing. 

2) Don’t crowd the pan.  Do this in batches such that there is an even layer, and the rings don’t overlap too much or they have a tendency to stick together and not cook evenly.

3) Pull them before you think they are done.  Just like fish, if you think it’s not quite done, it’s perfect.  Carryover cooking means that that golden blush in the pan = nicely crispy on the plate.  Nicely golden in the pan = charred on the plate.  So when the first golden kiss appears, start removing those shallots with a flat, slotted metal spatula, or like apparatus, and continue around the pan.

Trim the ends, peel and thinly slice

• 3 or more large shallots or other onions

Heat a heavy-bottom bottom pan on medium and add

• ~ 1 c grapseed or other oil, or until the pan has about an inch of oil

Add shallots in batches, breaking up the slices into separate rings with your hands as you do.  Once barely golden, remove to a plate with a couple layers of paper towel on it.  Continue to shallow fry in batches until all are done – adding more oil if needed.  Take care to remove any charred bits before adding more onions, but you don’t have to change the oil.  When you are done and the oil is cool, you can save it for a later use by straining it through paper towel to remove any bits and bottling it separate from the unused oil.  

Add crispy shallots to your dish and munch away!

Recipes that benefit from Crispy Shallots:  Shmeat Loaf, Sunchoke & Celeriac Soup, Decadent Scalloped Potatoes, many salads, and for a decadent touch to anything slathered in Mmmmm Mushroom Gravy.

Apple Cake

Serves 8 - 12

I must confess that I finally bought a springform pan – to make a mushroom torta.  As you may have noticed from the posts, dessert is kinda low on my radar.  But when the fresh apples come out, I find myself craving this “cake”.  Really, the apples are the star here and there is barely enough batter to hold them together.  So cake is really a misnomer if you are expecting something spongy, but I think this beats cake hands down.  I’ve tried to come up with another name for it, but I’m too busy stuffing my mouth with “samples”.

Preheat the oven to 350.  Grease a 9” springform pan and cut a circle of baking parchment to fit the bottom.  Grease the bottom & sides of the pan, lay down the paper then grease it lightly too.  While you are at it, pull out a baking sheet (and line that also with parchment or a silpad if you like) for putting the springform on to catch any drips. 

In a small bowl combine the dry ingredients with a whisk or fork:

• 1.5 c brown rice flour, or neutral GF flour
• 1.5 t baking powder
• 1 t xanthan gum
• 1 T freshly ground spices, such as cinnamon, allspice, star anise, nutmeg or ginger (I use ½ a stick of Mexican cinnamon, 11 allspice berries & 1 whole star anise)
• Pinch of salt

Melt and cool

• ½ c unsalted butter (1 stick) or substitute oil

Cut in half and remove the cores of

• 6-7 medium apples (~8 c), a mix is nice – Swiss Gourmet are a favorite - cut into quarters then ½” pieces

In a large bowl whisk until foamy

• 4 eggs

Then whisk in

• ½ c unsweetened applesauce
• 1/3 c agave syrup
• ¼ c dark rum, brandy or apple brandy
• 1 t vanilla extract

Whisk in half the flour mixture until incorporated, then half the butter, then the remaining flour, then remaining butter, mixing well after each addition to get a smooth batter.  This will be rather thick.  Using a rubber spatula, fold in the apples until they are well coated.  Scrap the batter into the pan prodding with the spatula to get it roughly even.

Bake in the center of the oven for 45-60 min, or until the top is golden and a knife inserted in the middle comes out clean.  Transfer to a cooling rack and let rest for 5-10 min, then run a butter knife around the edges to loosen.  Unsnap and remove the springform and let the cake cool to room temp (or slightly warmer).  Then place a plate upside down on top of the cake and quickly invert everything so the pan bottom is facing up.  If the bottom is loose, simply remove it and the parchment and then place another plate (or cutting board) on the cake bottom and flip back over.  Otherwise, slide a metal spatula between the parchment and the pan bottom to loosen and then flip upright again.  Cut into wedges and serve.  For an extra decadent touch, serve with barely sweetened freshly whipped cream or ice cream.