How to Make Substitutions Without Loosing Your Mind - Part 2

A Veg Turkey From: http://why-veg.com/tag/vegan/

Two of the dishes that may be the hardest to successfully replace or recreate at the VGF holiday table are: a satisfying main dish and stuffing.  Compounding this problem is that to many, this is part of/the whole/the only reason to be having this dinner anyway.  But don’t despair!  Being open to replacing the traditional roast meat and it’s breadcrumb stuffing, rather than recreating them, leaves many more avenues open to experiencing delicious (and usually more healthful)  alternatives. 

Alternatives?! No, I am not saying that instead of ham you should be happy with a beancurd and kale casserole.  Rather, I mean being happy with a dish that fulfills all of the scrumptious functions of, let’s say a roast turkey, can be had without, let’s say, relying on the main dish being sculpted like a turkey. Personally, I find the ‘fake drumsticks’ and the like to be deeply disturbing (and keep in mind, I still eat meat, occasionally – the hubbie is the veggie; see the first post for details). 

So, I guess that is my long and drawn-out point: you can recreate or replace.  If you desire the meaty chew and the slather-it-in gravy attributes of the roast beast, then by all means make a main that has those qualities (see homey & substantial below).  If you really just want a meatless main that is visually appealing and elegant enough to win over {your significant other’s} {special people}, go for a version of the ‘elegant & contained’ option below.  Breading/Stuffing/Dressing will be covered in 'Part 3'

Making a Meatless Main

Press-In Crust ready for filling

For something elegant and contained, try a savory tart or individual tartlets.  A lovely seasonal combination of chanterelles,leek and kale (and one of my favorites) is great place to start, but any of your favorite vegetables roasted or sautéed could take their place using the same press-in crust.

Shmeat Loaf with Mmmm mushroom gravy

For something homey and substantial, try a meatless loaf that can be presented more like a roast and served with traditional accompaniments like gravy and cranberry sauce.  Shmeat Loaf is a crowd pleaser, for vegetarians and omnivores alike – it and the Mmmm mushroom gravy are both vegan(!) too, but you’d never notice.  You can make this ahead of time too and just reheat in the oven the day of your feast.

For something comforting yet refined, try a layered dish of grains and vegetables in a pretty oven-to-table dish.  While calling it a ‘casserole’ conjures up images of Tuesday tuna surprise, more sophisticated dishes like the classic Italian tiella di verdura sound as special as they taste.  I found just such a recipe in Nancy Harmon Jenkins’s New Mediterranean Diet Cookbook that I’m dying to try.  Here is a very similar version, albeit without the rice (which you could easily layer in, or substitute with millet or quinoa).

Eggplant Timpano

Or the slightly more labor-intense but parcel-perfect Eggplant Timpano featured in this Tuesday’s FoodDay in the Oregonian.

Somewhere between comforting and contained is the tamale, a Mesoamerican staple of the Christmas table.  Tamales consist of a filling, either sweet or savory, surrounded by a corn-based dough and them steamed in a leaf wrapper (corn husk, banana or plantain leaf) which is removed before eating.  The sky is the limit when considering fillings so these can be very fun to experiment with.  There is even a local food cart, Koi Fusion, that is making tamales with an Asian twist, filling them with longbeans, daikon, short-rib and some fabulous spices.  I know the short-rib is less-than-vegetarian, but you get the point.

The ingredient list is short, and their only need a small tweak to make vegetarian or vegan as you like.  The corn base is actually masa, a special treatment of dent corn (as opposed to sweet corn) with lime to remove the husks and, as it turns out, unlock some of the bound nutrients in the kernels.  Most well-stocked grocery stores now carry masa, a common brand is Maseca which also makes a blend of masa especially for tamales, though this is not crucial and you can use just masa (I don’t know what makes them different).  Traditionally made with lard, you can substitute vegetable shortening, coconut oil or vegetable oil to make them vegan. We are making these today, so I will post it soon!  If you have access to a copy of The Veganomicon by Moskowitz & Romero (truly, the vegan bible) I am using their recipe as a base – you can find it on page 59.   Otherwise try this recipe from Vegetarian Times

 Note: They mention that ‘masa for tamales’ contains fat, presumably they mean of animal origin, and so to use plain masa instead.  The ingredient list on my bag of Maseca for Tamales states only: “selected corn treated with lime”. If you are unsure however, uses plain masa.

For the first in this series, check out Part 1 - aka 'The Crazy Season is Upon Us'

The Crazy Season is Upon Us

As the happy commotion of late summer activities made way to the blazing glory of fall, I find myself now contemplating the dying light of December(!). How quickly we find ourselves at the precipice of the shortest day, and headlong into ‘the crazy season’ in more ways than one.  ‘Tis the season to remember the important things in life: friends & family, a warm meal, shelter from the storm.  So as you gather round to celebrate, give thanks for this day: the present.

I am thankful for all the wonderful meals that I have had the pleasure of sharing with friends and family over the years.  I am grateful too that many loved ones have graciously adapted their favorite recipes to accommodate JJ’s and my restrictions with meat and wheat, among other things.  Whether you are new to the substitution game, or just stumped on specifics, making holiday dishes allergy friendly might be easier than you think.  Here are a few of the most common encounters: breadcrumbs, chicken stock, and the magic that is bacon.

How to make substitutions without loosing your mind - Part 1

Breadcrumbs

Conventional Subs

• GF Breadcrumbs are more widely available now in many specialty grocery stores
• If you have GF bread around, toast the slices until dry and then pulse in a food processor
• As long as the favor was not the failed part, I keep the results of ‘bread experiments’ sliced up in the freezer, and then thaw for making into crumb or croutons as needed

Creative Subs

Popped Amaranth

Depending on the function the breadcrumbs are fulfilling, numerous other ingredients, or combinations thereof, could be successfully employed:

• Topping/Crunch/Coating: quinoa flakes, slivered or sliced almonds, popped amaranth
• Body/Moisture Absorption: cornmeal/polenta, almond meal, GF flour like brown rice, or simply cooked rice or another GF grain; any of these could also be combined with some veg starch, such as potato or tapioca, especially if making a patty or loaf

Animal Stock/Broth

Chicken/Light Broth

Option 1 – Premade Vegetable Stock – good quality is important!

My favorite pre-fab veggie broths are from Wolfgang Puck (which I can't seem to find anymore) and Field Day Organic.  I've tried others and they can be exceptionally anemic and/or salty.  That being said, unfortunately the low-salt versions tend to also suck.  You can add a little poultry seasoning to reinforce the idea of ‘chicken’ if you like.  You can make your own veggie stock too, and I applaud you, but don't have the time myself, nor the freezer space to do this regularly.

Option 2 – Bouillon cubes

Good bouillon cubes are by Edward & Sons or Rapunzell.  Using bouillon you can get a little closer to the flavor right off the bat, with Edward & Sons Not-Chick’n 

Option 3 - Substitution

Depending on the recipe, you could sub all or part of the stock called for with water, white wine (diluted if necessary), or even a splash of rice wine vinegar.  Use your judgment accordingly when augmenting water as a substitution – I’m not telling you to make ‘chicken noodle soup’ with a bottle of wine!  Whatever you choose, amping up the spices can help to make up for any deficit in flavor.

Beef/Dark Stock

'Mushroom Liquor' from soaking dried ones

Option 1 – Premade liquids

Pacific Foods brand is ok for vegetable stock, but where they really shine is with their mushroom broth.  Mushrooms in general have great umami flavor that helps to give depth.  Using the soaking liquid from reconstituting dried mushrooms is another great option too, just be sure to strain it through a coffee filter or paper towel to catch any grit.

Option 2 – Bouillon cubes

Go for Edward & Sons Not-Beef bullion cubes.

Option 3 - Unctuous Onion Base

UOB - Unctuous Onion Base

Make a batch with this recipe, then thin it with a mixture of red wine and vegetable stock.  Let it simmer, the longer the better, to cook the alcohol out of the wine and allow the flavors to marry.  Add any spices you desire – bay leaf, black peppercorn and herbs complementary to the rest of your dish would be a nice start.

The 'secret' to veggie bacon flavor! Smoked paprika

Pork Products

Bacon

Flavor – smoked paprika, liquid smoke mixed with maple syrup, smoked salt

+ Texture – For a bacon-y base, sauté

• mushrooms, swiss chard stems &/or cubed firm tofu in
• caramelized onions, garlic, and
• a healthy dose of either smoked paprika or the liquid smoke & maple syrup mix, salt & pepper
• add a splash of veg stock

Swiss Chard stems - don't throw them out, make bac'n!

And you will have delicious smoky nuggets!

If you have neither paprika nor liquid smoke, try finishing the above with smoked salt before serving.  The grill can also impart vital smoky flavor – combined with a salty sweet glaze, you can get close to why all the reasons people love bacon.

Sausage

Tomato sauce with soyrizo

Flavor – many Italian seasoning mixes that contain fennel can really mimic the flavor that sausage imparts to a sauce (such as Williams-Sonoma Italian Sausage Seasoning). Another option is Montreal steak spice, or try a diy srasoning mix by combining:

• 2 T hungarian or sweet paprika
• 1 T coarsely crushed fennel seeds
• 2 t each of dried thyme, oregano, ground coriander, and garlic powder
• ¼ t – 1 t crushed red pepper flake depending on the desired level of heat

Mix together thoroughly and store in an air-tight jar. Use by the tablespoon (About 2 T for 1 lb of 'shmeat' or 30 oz of sauce).

+ Texture - Try commercially available ‘soyrizo’ or a like product, which tastes like spicy Mexican chorizo.  Read the label to ensure that the product is also gluten-free, most are.  Other options are to include one of the seasonings above with Quorn meat-free grounds, crumbled firm tofu, and/or ground or diced mushroom (especially portabello, porchini, shitake or crimini) which will give you a good texture and flavor approximation.

Hope this gives you some ideas on how to substitute for meat and/or wheat in your holidays dishes, and throughout the year.  For tips on how to reinvent some traditional side dishes in the VGF fashion, check out last year's post:
Very Good Food for the Holidays: Side Dishes Reconsidered

Or Check Out Part 2 of this 'series' - Making a Meatless Main

Now we're cooking with gas!

So excited to have a gas stove!  Apparently fourth stove is the charm (ask JJ). $300 later we have a great looking Jen-Air down draft gas stove with electric convection (!) oven and lots of extra pieces like an indoor grill insert.  All it took was three stoves, a range top, many visits to the Rebuilding Center, and one otherworldly trip to deep south Portland a la craigslist.  Reduce, reuse, recycle, ragu!

Simple Summer Pleasures

Serves 1 to 100

As you may (or may not) have noticed, the blog has been on a bit of a vacation this summer, with the author being preoccupied with, among other things, a whole home energy upgrade, a ‘collateral damage’ reno of the master bedroom due to the former (working on paint and plaster as we speak), massive garage sale, and the usual summer guests & travel.  So I do apologize, dear readers, for the lack of posts.  But do not despair as food is always near the forefront of this gal’s brain, and I have been amassing photos and recipes for a deluge of posts now that things are settling down somewhat... (except for the start of The Grape Harvest, the plethora of which will undoubtedly produce its own deluge of recipes as we try to deal with a bumper crop this year…stay tuned for that one!).

In these last warm days of a beautiful summer, and the chilly march into fall, it is the simple pleasures of life that are most rewarding.  I was fortunate enough to spend two days on the edge of the Hood Canal, west of Olympia, WA, soaking up some of the best the Northwest offers: warm sun, lapping waters, a babbling brook, and the hummus-filled air of lush cedar forests. 

In this environment, one needs little more than le cose essenziali della vita – the essentials of life – the phrase that Italians use to refer to bread and cheese.  For those on a GF journey good bread can be very hard to come by, causing borderline obsession at times (this is especially true for me when seeing the simple act of swirling fresh bread in tangy-sweet balsamic vinegar and luscious olive oil).  And so with the addition of the sublimity of summer wrapped up in a garden-grown tomato (thanks Carol!) and a riff on gremolata, one need only sit back and savor the simple pleasures of life.

Making the gremolata ahead of time makes this simple meal easily portable to any of your favorite late-summer destinations, and a decadent yet easy repas for beach, trail or picnic -- a bonus when there is so much to explore and precious little time to do so.

The ‘Essentials of Summer’ Lunch

With so few ingredients, quality is key to a sublime experience: splurge on (or make!) good bread, good cheese, good olive oil, good aged balsamic and local sunkissed tomatoes.

For each person:

• Cut 2 to 4 pieces of GF bread (depending on size) – New Cascadia’s multigrain boule is my personal favorite, and pictured here
• Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil (such as Napa Valley Naturals ‘sweet and fruity’) and aged balsamic vinegar (such as Napa Valley Naturals balsamic grand reserve)
• Spread on a layer of gremolata (recipe follows)
• Add slices of your favorite cheese (Some definite winners include brie, fontina, fresh mozza, creamy chèvre…or a pungent blue for those of you that swing that way).
• Arrange slices from one medium-sized perfectly ripe tomato
• Add coarse salt and fresh-ground pepper
• Top with additional oil and vinegar if desired

(Arguably an equally sublime dish could be made without the cheese, making this vegan if you choose a vegan, GF bread like most available from New Cascadia Traditional http://www.newcascadiatraditional.com/ )

Parsley-Olive- Caper Gremolata

Makes ~ 1 cup

Gremolata is a traditional Italian condiment made of lemon zest, garlic and herbs that can vary widely in application and contents.  It has a bright green flavor that can enhance many dishes, whether added in the beginning and allowed to mellow, or at the end to provide added piquancy.  Anchovies are often used as well, and I’ve substituted them with capers and olives to mimic that umami flavor.  I’ve also added almond and flaxseed meals to help tighten this up to hold together better as a spread, but these can be easily omitted if you want a looser condiment.  The almond & flaxseed meals can easily be made in a coffee/spice grinder (more on why you should own one in an upcoming post) from whole almonds and flaxseed – any extra meal can be stored in an air-tight container in the freezer for later use.

In a small food processor or blender add the following:

• 1 large handful of flat-leaved parsley, large stems removed (~ 1 cup, packed)
• 8 oz of castelvetrano olives, pitted & drained
• 1 t capers, drained
• 1 garlic clove, peeled
• Zest & juice of half a large lemon
• 1 T good extra virgin olive oil



First pass - chunky



Second pass - smoother with the meals added

• Drizzle of agave nectar, depending on the sweetness of the lemon

Pulse/blend until everything is chopped but still chunky.  Empty half into a bowl and to the remaining half in the processor/blender add:

• 2 T almond meal
• 1 t flaxseed meal

Blend until it is paste-like and incorporated.  Then transfer to the bowl with the chunky bits and stir together.  Of course, you can leave it all chunky or blend it all depending on your desired use.  This ‘half-and-half’ scenario work well for use as a spread.  If you want some zip, mix in:

• Red pepper flakes to taste (I used probably half a teaspoon for zippy yet approachable heat)

Creamy Coconut Buckwheat Bowl

Makes 3 to 4 cups | Easily doubled

The other morning I was yearning for a substantial breakfast, but trying to be mindful of healthy options at the same time.  I looked longingly at the jars & jars (& jars!) of whole grains, but as is usual for the breakfast hour was hungry NOW and didn’t want to wait 20 to 40 minutes for whole grained goodness, and quick oats held no appeal.  Then I spied the buckwheat - perfect! 

Contrary to what the name would suggest, buckwheat is not wheat at all – in fact, it’s not even a grain.  Like quinoa and amaranth, buckwheat is given the lackluster distinction of being a psuedograin, as none are actually part of the grass family that gives us common grains.  While buckwheat can be used like a grain, it contains no gluten and it’s actually related to rhubarb (!).  As a bonus it is a great source of all eight essential amino acids, most of the B vitamins, calcium and vitamin E.[i]

If you’ve got eastern European heritage, it’s likely that you’ve come across this little wonder before as a breakfast porridge, or the toasted buckwheat called kasha as a side dish.  Buckwheat flour is also a key ingredient in Japanese soba noodles, Russian blinis and savory French crêpe galettes.  

Breakfast really is an excellent time for buckwheat groats because they are so quick to cook up – only 10 – 15 minutes depending on how soft you like them.  Add some fun flavors to the cooking liquid and you have yourself a wonderful, healthful, quick & delicious bowl of goodness!  Even better, make up a batch and store it in the fridge – then add a little milk of your choice, and either warm briefly or eat cold with fresh fruit…. Either ways is delicious!

Add to a medium saucepot with a tight-fitting lid:

• 1 c whole buckwheat groats
• ½ c lite coconut milk (canned type – could also use the beverage type for something lighter)
• ½ c water
• 2 handfuls dried fruit (I used blueberries and currants, both unsweetened)
• 1 t warm spice(s) (singly or a combo of cinnamon, ginger, clove, star anise, and/or allspice)

Give it a quick stir, put on the lid and turn to hi.  Watch it as it can be a voracious bubbler!  Once it boils, turn the heat down to low and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, until the liquid is absorbed and the grains are fluffy but not mushy.  Don’t worry, this isn’t as temperamental as rice – you can take off the lid and give it a quick stir and a taste to see where it’s at - I tend to err on the 10 minute side and then I can always go a couple minutes longer if needed.  It should in no way resemble ‘mush’ unless you prefer it that way.

When it’s ready, fluff it with a fork and then portion into bowls – about a cup per serving (this is very filling!). Top with any/all of the following:

• Milk of your choice (almond and coconut are nice)
• Fresh seasonal fruit
• Nuts & seeds (almonds and hemp hearts are favorites – shredded coconut is good too!)
• A drizzle of maple syrup, agave nectar, molasses or honey

Dig it to a tasty bowl of buckwheat for breakfast!

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[i] Wood, Rebecca. 1999. “Buckwheat” in The New Whole Foods Encyclopedia. Penguin: New York, NY. 47-9 p.

Marinated Butter Bean Salad

Makes about 3 cups | Easily doubled

These large, creamy beans are absolutely divine to marinate!  You can often find them canned in a rich tomato sauce in Mediterranean markets and they make great picnic food.  While the tomato plants are barely in the ground in Portland, this nice stretch of hot weather had me thinking of bean salad - so this is a late spring twist with radishes fresh from the garden, along with the first few basil leaves (!). 

It’s a nice, fresh accompaniment to a mezze spread that you can throw together with ingredients you probably already have in your pantry, or outside your back door.  The base is beans, celery, onion, and sweetened vinegar, and you can add to that whatever is on hand and in season.  It holds well, and like all things marinated, gets better with age.  No one will know that these are actually baby lima beans!  See, I shouldn’t have told you… just try it and be captivated by the deliciousness.

Combine in a medium bowl:

• 1 – 15 oz can of butter beans (or beans of your choice), drained and rinsed
• 1 celery heart, diced fairly finely (about a cup – leave and all)
• 1 handful of radishes (or other seasonal veggies), diced
• ¼ of a large sweet onion, such as Walla Walla or Mayan sweet, dice finely
• Small handful basil (or other fresh herbs), chiffonaded
• 5 or 6 pepperonchini[i], diced with seeds
• ¼ to ½ c of seasoned rice wine vinegar (low salt, low sugar), depending on how ‘briny’ you like it
• 1 T agave nectar
• Drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, flavored is nice to complement your choice of herbs – I used basil infused evoo in this one
• Sea salt & lots of fresh cracked black pepper

Mix all together, taste and correct seasoning as needed.  Let sit for 20 minutes at least to let the flavors meld and permeate the beans.  Serve alongside appies, or with something hot off the grill. 

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[i] Pronounced pep-per-awn-CHEE-nee, these pickled peppers may also be labeled as Golden Greek peppers, or Tuscan peppers, and can be found in both sweet and medium-hot varieties. If you can’t find these, you can substitute pickled banana peppers, or pickled veggies of your choice and a little heat such as red pepper flakes or Tabasco – you get the idea.

May Day Violet Crème Soda

Serves 1

Being that it is the first of May, I was inspired to make something with sultry, mysterious, crème de violette.  This is one of those lovely things that have come into our life because our Kim discovered it and then blessed us with her knowledge (and a generous sample!).  I am seriously considering devoting a whole page to her ‘favorite things’ – she’s rivaling Oprah with some very fabulous finds. 

I then was intrigued by the recipe for a grasshopper, which evokes quasi late spring feelings in that it is green, but adding a whack of cream to anything alcoholic has never appealed to me (sorry paralyzer fans!).  And then my little mind went to summers when we would indulge in Italian sodas, with that optional splash of crème on top, and then it hit me – Violet Crème Soda.

Both the Crème de Violette and the Crème de Cacao are in the 20 – 25% range for alcohol, so with the addition of the soda this is a nice, light, refreshing soda.  However if your day has been especially trying, feel free to fortify it with some vodka.  Depending on how luxuriant you want it, or what is in your pantry, feel free to omit the splash of milk too.  I also think that a sprig of mint could be divine.

Fill a tall highball glass ¾ full with ice, add to that:

• 1.5 oz crème de violette
• 1 oz white crème de cacao (clear) – this can take over, you can always add more.
• 1.5 oz vodka (optional)

Top with

• 6 oz sparkling water (1/2 a regular 12 oz can)
• Splash of milk, cream, or milk substitute of your choice (also optional)

Serve with a long bar spoon or straw to let the imbibers witness the beautiful violet and mix it together for themselves.

105 Things to Try

I was recently surfing the web, following one idea to the next down some proverbial rabbit hole and ended up inspired a blogger (Brow-Eyed Baker) who had a tab entitled ‘My 100’.  It was a culinary bucket list of sorts that she had compiled, comprised of the many dishes she hoped to conquer in the kitchen.  And that got me thinking – why not put together a list of all the yummy things that aren't, by nature, vegetarian gluten-free that we could try to make that way?

Now most of the things on the list are already vegetarian OR gluten-free, so should not be too difficult to adapt.  Some dishes did rise to the top of the difficulty meter, by being neither veg nor gf (French onion soup, beef stroganoff, sausage & chard strata, grilled burgers, meatloaf, Chinese-style lemon chicken), by being very hard to substitute with gf products (fresh pasta, gnocchi, ravioli, a ‘real’ baguette, tiramisu, spanakopita, samosas), by being difficult to approximate with gf veggie protein (beef burgundy, paella, bacon, lardons), or by being just technically difficult (soy cheese,mozzarella, verjus). I’ve nicknames them ‘The Tricky Twenty” and they are highlighted in bold in the list below.

Observant types might have notice mozzarella – hey, that is vgf already, what gives? Well, that’s where the rest of the ‘bucket list’ comes in. I ended up with 75 items to adapt, but as the ideas were rolling in I started thinking of some culinary delights I would love to create, just for the joy of it.  These 25 loosely fall into fresh cheese making, pickling, and creating other things from scratch - like homemade mayo.

I’m sure this is just the tip of the iceburg, but it is a good start – and a way to inspire me in the kitchen when I’m thinking ‘what should I make today?’.  I’ve reposted it in its own tab too (without the commentary), where I will cross off dishes as they are developed and pass muster (along with the inevitable failures). See My 105. Bonus is that we have already made meatloaf and mac 'n' cheese - yay!  I want to know from you – what is on your 100?  What are you struggling to adapt to meet your needs?  Let me know and we can work at it together.

Italian Delights

1.       Fresh pasta - A quintessentially ridiculous dish to make gf.

2.       Gnocchi - We have tried, failed, and will try again.

3.       Lasagna - What could be more homey and delicious?

4.      Eggplant parmigiana – Successfully breading the eggplant may also lead to parmigiana sandwiches.

5.       Pasta e fagioli - Pasta and beans, traditionally favas.

6.      Stuffed zucchini blossoms - Usually dredged in flour and stuffed with breadcrumbs.

7.       Arancini - Risotto balls usually bound with breadcrumbs or panko.

8.      Ravioli - Once the pasta is figured out we can explore these beauties.

Bread! & Baked Things

9.      A ‘real’ baguette - A HUGE treat, yet to find one gf that passes muster.

10.    Biscuits - Almost as good as a baguette.

11.     Flatbread -  Pita, na’an, or chipatis, looking for whatever will work best.

12.    Good sandwich bread - Something that will hold up to mayo and all the fixin’s.

13.    Whole brown rice bread - A mythic, traditional Japanese loaf that sounds fabulous.

14.    Sprouted grain bread - Why can’t it be gf too?  Easier to digest than flour.

15.    Pizza dough - Enough said!  A craving for us gf folks.

16.    Quick bread - Something that can be adapted to sweet or savory ends

17.    Muffins - Would love to replicate my mom’s Pumpkin Crunch in gf!

18.    Cottage cheese bread - Have some very nostalgic memories of this, with lots of dill.

19.    Crackers - A must for all the fresh cheese further down the list.

Sweets

20.   Angel food cake – My absolute fav as a kid.

21.    Fruit galette - My absolute fav now.

22.   Broken glass dessert - A jello & whipped cream concoction of my Grandma’s with lots of memories J

23.   Cheesecake - Who doesn’t love a good cheesecake?

24.   Brownies - Hard to resist, even for us non-dessert types.

25.   Meyer lemon curd - The quintessential lemon indulgence, I have to try it.

26.   Vegan fruit crisp - Loooove fruit crisp, why not make it more inclusive?

27.   Tiramisu - Lots of gf hurdles with this one, homemade ladyfingers?

28.   Gingerbread cookies - Another sweet soft spot.

29.   Shortbread - We’re Scottish, after all!

30.   Chestnut flour cake - Intriguing traditional Italian confection.

31.    Decent tart shell - That can take a bunch of seasonal fruit & still behave.

Savory Pastries

32.   Gourgettes - French cheese puffs, would love to make these work out.

33.   Spanakopita - Miss this fantastic combination of feta & spinach.

34.   Samosas - One of the best, hearty snack foods I used to adore.

35.   Empanadas - Latin American handpies, maybe with maseca?

36.   Turnovers - Infinitely stuffable with goodness.

Soups & Stews

37.   French onion soup - Beef broth & bread slice make this a double hurdle.

38.   Mulligatawny soup - Creamy, curry chicken with surprises of apple.

39.   Naomi Pomeroy’s celery velouté - Looks divine, but started with a roux.

40.  Miso soup - Complete restorative; usually has bonito fish broth.

41.    Posole - Heartwarming soup with hominy, pork and chicken.

42.   Pho - The Vietnamese staple that hits all the right notes.

43.   Guinness stew - How to get that rich beefy goodness in veggies form?

Main Events

44.  Meatloaf - JJ’s favorite, especially for sandwiches

45.   Falafel - One of my favs, but often adulterated with wheat flour, and served in a pita.

46.  Beef burgundy - Julia Child might not be impressed, but I am determined!

47.   Beef stroganoff - A yummy classic that needs much VGF revision.

48.  Mac & Cheese - Oh yah!

49.  Sausage & Chard Strata - Found this bread-based recipe and just have to try it.

50.  Burgers that can be grilled - If only… without breadcrumbs they tend to fall apart.

51.    Beef burgers - Looking for depth of flavor and great texture

52.   Chicken burgers - Something lighter but still substantial with some zing.

53.   Lamb kofta - Trying to be like our friend Huseyin, who makes it best

54.   Soufflé - For those fancypants dinner parties, usually contain flour

55.   Shepherd’s pie - Rich and comforting even in VGF form

56.   Chicken wings - If it’s coated in good sauce, will you know that it’s tofu?

57.   Bacon - Working for that smoky somtin’ somtin’.

58.   Paella - How to make so many kinds of meat replacements?

59.   Dirty Rice - A New Orleans staple.

60.  Lion’s head meatballs - Pork-based Chinese wonders.

61.   Chinese-style lemon chicken - A guilty favorite.

62.   Carne asada - Gimme spice!

63.   Shredded beef - Love the texture, would love in more on a sandwich.

64.  Lardons - Pork belly cubes of saturated goodness, might be hard to make veggie style.

65.   Butter chicken - Love it! 

66.  Jerk chicken - Bring on the heat…

67.   Chili - A favorite of sporting events, sloppy sandwiches, & nachos

68.  Something tea-infused - Totally intrigued by the cover of Culinary Tea.

Faux Dairy

69.  Vegan “butter” - There has to be something healthier to dip my artichokes in.

70.   Vegan cheese sauce - Morbid curiosity.

71.    Vegan mayo - We use veganaise, but it is getting sooooo expensive!

72.   Almond milk - Homemade has to be better, right?

73.   Soy milk - Intrigued, because of the following two possibilities:

74.   Soy yogurt - Does this work or taste okay?

75.   Soy cheese - Is this possible at home?

{Onto those that are just for the fun of it….}

Fresh Cheese & Dairy Delights

76.   Mozzarella - Mmmm fresh mozza with tomatoes, basil & olive oil.

77.   Ricotta – Yummy.

78.   Ricotta salata - Double yummy.

79.   Mascarpone - Is seem some great dessert potential.

80.  Paneer - Then onto peas paneer, one of JJ’s fav Indian dishes.

81.    Queso blanco - A must for the Latin dishes.

82.   Quark - The oldest form of cheese in Europe, dates to 3 B.C.E!

83.   Feta - Can you imagine fresh feta at home?!?!?!

84.  Chèvre - Another big favorite – though JJ isn’t as fond of it as I am.

85.   Soft goat cheese - Apparently there is a difference between this and chèvre.

86.  Goats milk mozzarella - Interesting…

87.   Sour cream - I’ll try it at least once, just to see.

88.  Crème fraîche - And then onto Truffled Crème Fraiche!

89.  Butter - Looks too easy not to try.

90.  Ice cream - Saw a recipe for white chocolate ice cream, so have to try it.

91.    Paskha - An interesting looking Russian Easter ‘dessert’ made in clay flower pots! HAVE to try that!

Canned & Homemade

92.   Dill pickles - A classic, growing my own cucs this year too!

93.   Pickled eggs - Not as weird as you think, now I’m addicted!

94.  Pickled beets - Just for Kim J

95.   Picked asparagus or beans - I won’t lie, they're destined for Homemade bloody marys.

96.  Pickled hot peppers – Addictive! Thinking of you, Shelly!

97.   Giardiniera - A classic Italian picked veg medley that is delicious.

98.  Verjus - Vinegar made out of unripe grapes, and boy do we have grapes.

99.  Low-sugar fruit jam - Apricot, fig or blueberry? Decisions decisions.

100.   Pear or apple butter - Fruit purees that you spread like butter caught my interest.

101. Apple sauce - Just to try, probably destined for baking.

102.Homemade mayo - A must.

103. Homemade mustard - A cool looking Roman mustard recipe sparked this.

104.   Homemade ketchup - Because the stuff from the store is SCARY.

105.Own Montréal steak spice - One of our secret weapons, so why not make it our own?

A Site for Sure Knives

I came across a great site the other day that I must share with you!  It was once I wrote out the steps on How to Cut Suprêmes that I realized a video tutorial would go a lot further to help you from cutting your thumb off in the process!  I posted a link to the one I found at Stella Culinary, but thought that this fabulous site needs its own post to make sure everyone checks it out.  

It is a fabulous compendium of culinary information from the Truckee, CA, kitchen of Chef Jacob Burton.  He features explanations of ingredients, techniques and more - in pictures, print & video - so you can learn at your own pace.  The videos are short, succinct, and free of all the humming and hawing that characterize so many YouTube flicks (and feature a headless chef just like this blog!).  And apart from the little intro sequence, there are no adds or other plugs.  He emphasizes local and seasonal ingredients, and you can sign up for a monthly newsletter too.

So I encourage you to work on those knife skills, hone your cooking techniques, and generally be inspired to be a more confident and competent chef - thanks Chef Jacob Burton for sharing your knowledge!

http://www.stellaculinary.com/

Citrus Celebration

Makes ~ 6 cups + juice

The absolute best eating comes from local, seasonal food, picked at the peak of freshness and spared from long travel distances from farm to fork.  The second best is eating seasonally, even if that locale is a little farther away. 

In winter and the earliest reaches of spring comes the welcome blessing of citrus season.  While these fruits necessarily hail from places like Texas, Florida and California, their natural “packaging” makes them easy to ship in quantity without refrigeration.  And they are a bright light in the middle of what may seem like a fresh fruit void.  While frozen berries in winter are always a delight, a fresh citrus salad can lift the spirits, not to mention the gloom of winter rains in the Pacific Northwest.  So gather up a basket load of succulent citrus while at its best, and dream of tropical escapes.

This can be as simple or as fru-fru as you want to make it – either way it is best to take a little extra time to cut the fruit into suprêmes – a French term for cutting citrus into sections minus their membranes and pithy cushioning (check out How to Cut Supremes).  Don’t fret – it’s really easy with a sharp knife (you need at least ONE sharp knife to function in a kitchen!).  You can section them into a small bowl to check for pits and pith before adding it to the main dish, or just section off into the big bowl and try to catch them as they come.  Either way be sure to squeeze all the juice from the left-over membrane – this can be the best part!  If when you are done the salad is too “soupy” for you, drain some of the juice off and make yourself a beautiful glass of OJ or splurge with an exquisite mimosa.    

This will keep for a few days in the fridge, so make a big batch even if you are only 1 or 2.  You can serve this just as it is, or with a dollop of plain yogurt and some gf granola.  You can even turn it into a citrus salad (see below). 

And anytime you are going to make a big batch of citrus anything, consider peeling the fruit first and making home-made candied citrus peels and get flavored simple syrup as a bonus.  Talk about using it all up!

Cut into supremes a mixture of seasonal citrus, such as:

• 6 navel oranges, such as Cara cara
• 3 blood oranges, such as Minolo or Tarroco (these make the juice a wonderful magenta and offer a unique flavor too)
• 3 tangerines, like Honey
• 2 large grapefruit (or 3 small), I prefer the red varieties
• 1 or 2 Meyer lemons, sweet limes, or kumquats for the adventurous

Ginger makes this salad a potent immune booster!

With beautifully sweet-tart fruit, you may want to leave well enough alone.  Otherwise you can follow one of the following variations:

• 3-4 t freshly grated ginger OR
• A handful of fresh mint, chiffonaded  (check out Stella Culinary for a chiffonade how-to video)

If the juice is a little on the sour side, add

• A drizzle of agave syrup once you serve  (adding it to the whole batch could make overly sweet)

Citrus Celebration Salad

Dressing:

• 2 T juice
• 1 T flax oil (or hemp, or evoo)
• 1-2 t your favorite mustard
• Dash of garlic powder
• Fresh cracked pepper
• (for a twist, add 1 t garam masala or curry powder)

For each portion plate

• Large handful mixed baby greens, spinach or lettuce, seasoned with kosher salt and cracked black pepper & tossed with dressing

Top with

• ½ c citrus segments, drained
• 1 oz goat cheese, crumbled
• 1 T nuts such as sliced or slivered almonds, cracked hazelnuts, or walnuts (toasted is nice!)
• ½ T dried fruit such as currants, golden raisins or cranberries

Makes a great appetizer, side salad or light lunch.  Add a hard-boiled egg for a great dinner salad.

For a fascinating account of all things citrus, check out http://www.enotes.com/citrus-fruit-reference/citrus-fruit

How to Cut Suprêmes

Suprême is a French term used to describe a citrus segment in which the inner flesh has been separated from the membrane, seeds, and outer white fluffy pith. Doing away with the membranes and bitter pitch makes citrus segments more enjoyable to eat in a composed dish, such as a salad or desert, and is an easy technique to master with a sharp knife. Any citrus - from plummelo to kumquat – can be cut into suprêmes.  This technique is vital for a Citrus Celebration.

1. “Top & Tail”: Cut the top and bottom off the orange and rest the bottom flat on the cutting board. 

2. Using the amount of pith (white part) that is exposed at the top as a gauge, run your knife from top to bottom along the curvature of the orange to remove the pith & peel from the flesh. Try to remove as little of the flesh as possible. Go all the way around the orange and clean up any necessary remaining pith. 

3. Holding the fruit over a bowl to catch any juice (if desired, or just cut over the cutting board), slice between the fruit and the membrane on each side of the segment, releasing it from the rest of the orange. Be careful to only slice halfway through the orange, and not into your hand. If you have to saw to accomplish this, your knife is NOT SHARP ENOUGH. Then deposit the new suprême in the bowl and continue around the fruit until all you have are the membranes left. I like to give these a final squeeze to release any juice (be careful of seeds) and there you are! 

For a well-made, short video on the subject (that also features a “headless chef”!) check out Chef Jacob Burton at Stella Culinary http://www.stellaculinary.com/podcasts/video/how-slice-citrus-supremes

If you are using a large quantity of citrus, think of saving the peel and candying it - check out the recipe here.

Yes, I AM That Crazy

Notice the "key ingredient" to cook in this mess (hint: its not the spackle knife)

I know that this has been a long reno "black out" period for the blog, but I want you to know that I am still working on recipes and pictures for post-kitchen-apocalypse posts!  Here is a snapshot of what it was like last week, when I couldn't take take-out anymore (but apparently had no problem adding more chaos to the counters).

I wish the shopvac I was tripping over made dinner clean up easier!

I had come across a recipe for a jerk marinade (applied to chicken of course) earlier in the reno and decided to give it a go with tofu.  Well, after three days marinating in the fridge I figured it was now or never to make it for dinner.  I added some sauteed caramelized plantains, fresh cara cara orange segments and toasted cashews, all nestled on a bed of spinach with a simple lime juice vinaigrette.

Nothing says tasty like a little construction adhesive!

Unfortunately whether it was the extended marinade, the adaptation to tofu, or the sizes that I cut everything, it wasn't quite where I wanted it to be....don't get me wrong, it was totally edible and still welcome after a long day of dust and elbow grease.  I just want it to be stellar in order to post it for you!  So if you have a great Jamaican jerk marinade recipe, by all means try your own version of this simple yet flavorful, and filling, dinner salad.   Until a can try out a better one, at least you can have a laugh at how food crazy I really am.

In the end it was still better than another night of takeout

Fun with Bitters

I was bestowed with a gift of bitters for the holidays from my sweetie (I asked for them, so it’s a good thing!) and have been having fun experimenting ever since. While bitter flavors are generally underrepresented in the west, they are an important part of the kitchen and nutrition arsenal none the less.

Bitters literally “wet” the appetite by stimulating the production of digestive enzymes from the mouth (saliva), stomach (acid), and liver (bile).  Many greens and other things you eat have bitter constituents, such as collards, endive, dandelion, mustards, and kale; even artichokes, Seville oranges, coffee and good dark chocolate are bitters.  If you’ve ever had a sazerac in New Orleans or a negroni before dinner, you have partaken in some lovely cocktails featuring bitters. 

Leonetto Cappiello Campari poster c.1921 art.com

To become bitters plants are either infused into alcohol (or sometimes glycerin) or their essences distilled into it, to impart their unique flavors and nourishing properties.  Concentrated amounts were and are still used medicinally, whereas the most common bitters on the market today are used more as digestifs and aperitifs.

The campari used in a negroni is a secret mixture of herbs, fruit and (traditionally) carmine dye to impart its deep red color.  Likewise, many other bar staples have a bitter quality imparted by one or more specific herb: Absinthe (wormwood), Tonic water (quinine), Angostura (gentian) … even our own Oregon Grape is a potent bitter that might make a lovely addition to a cocktail someday!

Where tonic & campari are used in relatively large volumes, Angostera bitters and other such brands (such as Fee Brothers & Scrappy’s) are used by the dash.  This is also the case with the bitters that I am now playing with. 

We are down to one bulb - so sorry about the lighting!

The two sample packages I received include: aromatic, lavender, celery, orange, chocolate, cardamom, and grapefruit bitters, while Scappy’s also makes root beer and lime bitters.  I have seen mint & peach also from Fee Brothers, and that is just the beginning.  Shops such as The Meadow on N Mississippi have so many flavors & varieties that it boggles the mind that there are so many small-batch crafters of bitters!

So far we have come up with the following little ditties, all of which would make wonderful virgin concoctions to keep with any new year’s resolutions to imbibe less, or if the new year has brought a new gift that requires a seat back “on the wagon” (congrats Nicky!).  Just omit the booze entirely, or substitute more flavored or plain soda to make up the difference in volume.  Or to get a gin-like flavor, try pouring in a little juniper dry soda.

New Years Even with tequila & chocolate bitters

A note on dry sodas: the “dry” here is similar to why you would call a certain wine dry – namely, it is substantially less sweet.  I like the Seattle-based Dry Soda Co.’s adventurous flavors, and less-is-more mandate.  Each variety has only four ingredients and weigh in at around 55 calories (40-70) and come in fun flavors like rhubarb, lavender, juniper, vanilla bean, lemongrass, wild lime, blood orange and cucumber. Visit the website for the flavor profiles that feature food pairing suggestions and cocktail recipes.  http://drysoda.com You can find these at many well-stocked grocery stores in the Pacific Northwest, including New Seasons & Freddy's.

Once you start with bitters, you’ll find yourself adding them to all sorts of drinks and even start sneaking it into salad dressings, marinades and whatnot for an extra little bite!  A votre santé!

Some Easy Combinations to Try...

Floral Gin like G’Vin Floraison or Bombay sapphire | lavender dry soda | lavender bitters

Crisp Gin like Aviation, New Amsterdam or Plymouth | rhubarb dry soda | celery bitters

Good Tequila like Avion Resposado or Corralejo Resposado | slightest lime squeeze | chocolate bitters (you could also try the grapefruit or lime bitters)

Celebrate citrus season with a Campari & OJ

Bourbon like Makers Mark | chai tea | orange bitters

Campari | juice of one valencia orange | orange bitters

(Cheap) Sparkling Wine | grapefruit fanta | grapefruit & cardamom bitters (this concoction of Tricia's shouldn't work but it does!)

(Not as cheap) Sparkling Wine | aromatic & lavender bitters

Water | fresh-squeezed lemon | aromatic bitters

Other ideas: Wake up a dirty martini or a bloody mary with a good shot of celery bitters, try spiking cold herb tea/infusions with a dash of bitters...fabulous!

Add aromatic bitters to herbal teas for a kick

Intrigued by Bitters?  Check out...

Scrappy’s Bitters http://scrappysbitters.com/ - Recipes are grouped by flavor

Campari Cocktails http://www.campari.com/int/en/cocktails/list/