04 November 2011

Unctuous Onion Base: Beyond Caramelized Onions

Caramelized onions are pure sex.  They transcend the humble onion into magically savory sweet morsels of deliciousness that are truly things of beauty.  You may have encountered caramelized onions in a sandwich or on a hotdog, but really they can amp up the flavor of everything from an egg sandwich to a pot of rice.
Taking caramelized onions to the next level of awesomeness involves going past the point where they still resemble onions in form, patiently cooking them down to become the rich, dark, unctuous paste that inspired their name.  This is culinary gold. 

UOB is worth making by the batch/bag/bushel and then freezing in manageable portions (a cup or two works) and ensuring that there is always a ready supply – trust me, you will use it.  Almost every recipe I invent or adapt with a meat-like flavor profile involves an unctuous onion base.  This is the source of flavor for gravy, meatballs, meatloaf, broth for a myriad of applications like risotto, French onion soup, and anything in need of a beefy flavor. 

Experiment with different onions to see how the base flavor changes.  Naturally sweet ones like Walla Wallas, Mayans, or Vidalias result in nice caramelized onions but I find that they don’t give the depth of flavor to UOB like yellow boiler onions do.  And the sweet onions tend to be more expensive, so I like to save them for less cooked applications where they can shine.  I often use a mix of sweet and less sweet onions in UOB for depth of flavor.  Play around with what you have and see for yourself. 

Caramelized Onions:
Use any quantity of onions that will fit in your chose pan, keeping in mind that the deeper you pile them, the longer it will take.  If you want to make a big batch, consider splitting the quantity into two pans.  Heavy bottomed, cast iron or woks work best (woks because of the greater surface area and heat convection).  To give you an approximate idea, 4 or 5 boiler onions (the ones you get in a netted bag) makes about 1.5 cups of UOB or closer to 2 cups of caramelized onions.

Cut the onions lengthwise from root to shoot, then cut the root and shoot end from each half and remove the papery outer layers.  Using a sharp knife, mandolin, or food processor, slice crosswise into half moons of desired thickness taking care that they are more-or-less equal.  If proceeding to UOB, slice thinly.  If making caramelized onions for a burger, for instance, cut about ¼ inch thick so they maintain their shape better. 
Heat one or more pans on medium high.  When hot add evoo or oil of your choosing to coat the bottom (~1 T).  Add the onions and stir to coat.  Sprinkle with a pinch of coarse salt to hasten the release of juices.  Stir frequently to keep from sticking to the pan.  When the onions are browned and delectable remove them from the heat and use liberally or keep the heat on and move onto UOB. 

Unctuous Onion Base:
Once caramelized, and sticking slightly to the bottom, deglaze the pan by pouring a ½ to 1 cup of water, veggie stock or wine over the onions and scraping the brown bits off the bottom with a wooden spoon or other sufficiently rigid utensil.  You will notice that the color transfers to the onions and they darken further.  Repeat this process each time that the moisture has evaporated and the onions are sticking to the pan, reducing the heat slightly each time to prevent them from burning.  I often use a mix of veggie stock and water to keep it from getting too salty.  When at least half of the batch no longer resembles sliced onions you’ve made it!  You can let this go even further for deeper flavor but less yield or stop now.  Puree with a stick blender, regular blender or food processor if you want/need a smooth consistency.  Otherwise you can use as is.  Congratulations!  You have the beginning of many beautiful dishes!

Posted recipes that use UOB: Mmmm Mushroom Gravy, Shmeat Loaf, more to come…

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