22 February 2012

A Site for Sure Knives

I came across a great site the other day that I must share with you!  It was once I wrote out the steps on How to Cut Suprêmes that I realized a video tutorial would go a lot further to help you from cutting your thumb off in the process!  I posted a link to the one I found at Stella Culinary, but thought that this fabulous site needs its own post to make sure everyone checks it out.  

It is a fabulous compendium of culinary information from the Truckee, CA, kitchen of Chef Jacob Burton.  He features explanations of ingredients, techniques and more - in pictures, print & video - so you can learn at your own pace.  The videos are short, succinct, and free of all the humming and hawing that characterize so many YouTube flicks (and feature a headless chef just like this blog!).  And apart from the little intro sequence, there are no adds or other plugs.  He emphasizes local and seasonal ingredients, and you can sign up for a monthly newsletter too.

So I encourage you to work on those knife skills, hone your cooking techniques, and generally be inspired to be a more confident and competent chef - thanks Chef Jacob Burton for sharing your knowledge!

15 February 2012

Citrus Celebration


Makes ~ 6 cups + juice

The absolute best eating comes from local, seasonal food, picked at the peak of freshness and spared from long travel distances from farm to fork.  The second best is eating seasonally, even if that locale is a little farther away. 

In winter and the earliest reaches of spring comes the welcome blessing of citrus season.  While these fruits necessarily hail from places like Texas, Florida and California, their natural “packaging” makes them easy to ship in quantity without refrigeration.  And they are a bright light in the middle of what may seem like a fresh fruit void.  While frozen berries in winter are always a delight, a fresh citrus salad can lift the spirits, not to mention the gloom of winter rains in the Pacific Northwest.  So gather up a basket load of succulent citrus while at its best, and dream of tropical escapes.

This can be as simple or as fru-fru as you want to make it – either way it is best to take a little extra time to cut the fruit into suprêmes – a French term for cutting citrus into sections minus their membranes and pithy cushioning (check out How to Cut Supremes).  Don’t fret – it’s really easy with a sharp knife (you need at least ONE sharp knife to function in a kitchen!).  You can section them into a small bowl to check for pits and pith before adding it to the main dish, or just section off into the big bowl and try to catch them as they come.  Either way be sure to squeeze all the juice from the left-over membrane – this can be the best part!  If when you are done the salad is too “soupy” for you, drain some of the juice off and make yourself a beautiful glass of OJ or splurge with an exquisite mimosa.    


This will keep for a few days in the fridge, so make a big batch even if you are only 1 or 2.  You can serve this just as it is, or with a dollop of plain yogurt and some gf granola.  You can even turn it into a citrus salad (see below). 

And anytime you are going to make a big batch of citrus anything, consider peeling the fruit first and making home-made candied citrus peels and get flavored simple syrup as a bonus.  Talk about using it all up!

Cut into supremes a mixture of seasonal citrus, such as:
  • 6 navel oranges, such as Cara cara
  • 3 blood oranges, such as Minolo or Tarroco (these make the juice a wonderful magenta and offer a unique flavor too)
  • 3 tangerines, like Honey
  • 2 large grapefruit (or 3 small), I prefer the red varieties
  • 1 or 2 Meyer lemons, sweet limes, or kumquats for the adventurous

Ginger makes this salad a potent immune booster!
With beautifully sweet-tart fruit, you may want to leave well enough alone.  Otherwise you can follow one of the following variations:

If the juice is a little on the sour side, add
  • A drizzle of agave syrup once you serve  (adding it to the whole batch could make overly sweet)


Citrus Celebration Salad

Dressing:
  • 2 T juice
  • 1 T flax oil (or hemp, or evoo)
  • 1-2 t your favorite mustard
  • Dash of garlic powder
  • Fresh cracked pepper
  • (for a twist, add 1 t garam masala or curry powder)

For each portion plate
  • Large handful mixed baby greens, spinach or lettuce, seasoned with kosher salt and cracked black pepper & tossed with dressing

Top with
  • ½ c citrus segments, drained
  • 1 oz goat cheese, crumbled
  • 1 T nuts such as sliced or slivered almonds, cracked hazelnuts, or walnuts (toasted is nice!)
  • ½ T dried fruit such as currants, golden raisins or cranberries

Makes a great appetizer, side salad or light lunch.  Add a hard-boiled egg for a great dinner salad.


For a fascinating account of all things citrus, check out http://www.enotes.com/citrus-fruit-reference/citrus-fruit

14 February 2012

How to Cut Suprêmes

Suprême is a French term used to describe a citrus segment in which the inner flesh has been separated from the membrane, seeds, and outer white fluffy pith. Doing away with the membranes and bitter pitch makes citrus segments more enjoyable to eat in a composed dish, such as a salad or desert, and is an easy technique to master with a sharp knife. Any citrus - from plummelo to kumquat – can be cut into suprêmes.  This technique is vital for a Citrus Celebration.

1. “Top & Tail”: Cut the top and bottom off the orange and rest the bottom flat on the cutting board. 


2. Using the amount of pith (white part) that is exposed at the top as a gauge, run your knife from top to bottom along the curvature of the orange to remove the pith & peel from the flesh. Try to remove as little of the flesh as possible. Go all the way around the orange and clean up any necessary remaining pith. 


3. Holding the fruit over a bowl to catch any juice (if desired, or just cut over the cutting board), slice between the fruit and the membrane on each side of the segment, releasing it from the rest of the orange. Be careful to only slice halfway through the orange, and not into your hand. If you have to saw to accomplish this, your knife is NOT SHARP ENOUGH. Then deposit the new suprême in the bowl and continue around the fruit until all you have are the membranes left. I like to give these a final squeeze to release any juice (be careful of seeds) and there you are! 





For a well-made, short video on the subject (that also features a “headless chef”!) check out Chef Jacob Burton at Stella Culinary http://www.stellaculinary.com/podcasts/video/how-slice-citrus-supremes

If you are using a large quantity of citrus, think of saving the peel and candying it - check out the recipe here.